WOOSTER DRESSING: ON THE PERFECT FIT AND THE RIGHT CUT

For someone who doesn’t fit the usual Asian build like me, buying something off-the-rack - unless in Europe or North America - isn’t really the best option.

I have learned to accept the fact that I will never be stick-thin to fit into a minimalist Jil Sander suit or a shrunken Thom Browne but hey, I look good in Paul Smith and Ralph Lauren.

Growing up having a go-to tailor has made life easy for dad and myself. I mean, not because nothing looked good on us – we just like things our way from the right cut to the right break.


( I have always been a fan of street style star, Nick Wooster. His personal style is just spot on!)

Finding the right tailor isn’t always easy. First, you should always need to know what to ask for. I know a couple of guys who know too much terminology, bordering on menswear know-it-all, also known as that cuckoo asshole but if you don’t know your body well enough, you’ll still look like a boxy Lego figure or worse, Gumby.


(His suits are tailored to perfection!)

Make sure you know how a suit is supposed to fit, and find a tailor you trust to get it there. I have had my share of impulsive bespoke suits from who someone swore was the best – guess what, I never wore it despite 5 alterations.


(Madras blazer in pure perfection - I drool!)

To bespoke virgins, here’s what to look and ask for the next time you get suited up. Trust me, it’ll be orgasmic!

1.Suits now are snugger in the shoulders and more fitted. Take note, fitter suits doesn’t mean it has to be tight.

2.Your jacket sleeve should be no lower than your wrist bone but high enough for a quarter to half-inch of your shirtsleeve to show when you move your arm.

4.Though a lot of designers are doing shorter styles lately, the ideal length hasn’t changed. I’m all for the classic cut!

5.Pant legs shouldn’t be loose nor boxy and yes, no pleats please!

6.Sartorial conservatives like me prefer no break at all but for a virgin like you, slight break wouldn’t hurt.

7.And yes, never trust a local designer who will charge you an arm and a leg for are-tagged pseudo bespoke suit. That’s just plain gross!

(Illustration by Menco Nieuwenhuis of la couleur blanche)

And oh, if you insist wearing a silk suit during daytime, here’s a rope and a pole. I won’t stop you from hanging yourself.

BASIC MATTER 31: MIXING HIGH AND LOW

August Wilson, an American playwright once said, “style isn’t nothing but keeping the same idea from beginning to end.”

Recently, I have noticed a lot of men are dressing a little more creatively and a little more unexpectedly and yes, more confident. Totally not bad!



(I mean, what is life without whimsy, right?)

I have always liked mixing high and low, mixing my Seven for all Mankind’s, APC’s and Viktor’s with tailored bespoke shirts, my Ascot Chang’s and shirts bought from the nearby thrift shop. Growing up, I always remember my parents telling me that dressing well means dressing like an individual and not like someone who you idolize on television.

I know I am sometimes guilty for staying on the safe side of dressing but hey, I love how a lot of designers now are more on individuality and putting a new version of what we guys should look like. Thom Browne and Michael Bastian for instance focuses more on individuality.



(Don’t blame me for being traditional and oh, those watch straps are sweet!)

I recently purchased a couple of nice fabrics in Japanese cotton and seersucker in purple, salmon, powder blue and white and have a couple of shirts and bespoke shorts made. Yes, creating your own visual style is always the key, let it be unique and hah! still identifiable for others.

THIS IS DEFINITELY NOT YOUR DAD’S SUIT

“I wanted to take a small detail and make people really think about it. It was something people hadn’t seen before. I wanted to encourage younger customers to look at a suit and think, “Well, maybe I really could wear that.” – Thom Browne