Showing posts with label men style. Show all posts
Showing posts with label men style. Show all posts

October 10, 2012

BASIC MATTER: ON MENSWEAR, UPDATING YOUR CLOSET AND GETTING IT RIGHT


You don’t have to wear purple head-to-toe and look like an anorexic Barney or desperately cling to anything trendy.

Today, it's no secret everyone is turning to street style blogs like The Sartorialist, Altamira NYC and the Face Hunter for inspiration.

It is always fun and interesting to see how styles and trends change over the years make a comeback. What felt less like a new fashion season now feels more like a contest on who spends more time in front of the mirror - trust me!

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(Clothing every man should own - a crisp white dress shirt and a well-cut suit in navy! Photo from Shentonista)

A few years back, anyone wearing a plain white tee, fake ungraded thick framed glasses, would never be accused of being a trend follower but recently, such things have become shameless clichés.

Take a stroll in any of Manila’s spots from the malls to the newly converted warehouses cum indie establishments  and you will be sure to see a spectacle of fashion-conscious tweens to twenty something hanging about and sporting a number of predictable stylistic trademarks; ultra skinny jeans, spandex leggings, vintage red lumberjack flannel, fake ungraded thick framed eyeglasses and a yes, a keffiyeh ( that huge scarf initially sported by the Palestinians and field reporters) – a completely meaningless cliché fashion accessory.

No, they don’t represent the end of civilization!

Ok, so maybe ordinary denim trousers does get a bit boring sometimes, but was there ever really an excuse for wearing these excessively rinsed-out, high-waisted monstrosities? Although they were soft and comfortable that you could comfortably doze off in them, they did inevitably look as though you did your clothes shopping at the nearby thrift shop (Ukay-Ukay).
While there is the rare sighting of someone effortlessly stylish (this is Manila after all and not Hong-Kong or New York), real fashionistas don’t show up wearing “look at me” outfits – leave it to the fashion victims & wannabes.

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(Here's a rare case of me posting a photo of myself - Pale blue dress shirt from Ascot Chang and Navy Blazer from Brooks Brothers.)
I know life can be difficult, but your clothes don’t have to be. Just like me, always stick to your updated basics.

This isn’t the Hamptons but who cares!

Pale, wimpsy and mumsy just like Pewee Herman; banish these words from your mind and incorporate pastel in your regular wardrobe to add insouciant splash of flavor. Think clubhouse style with a dose of Windsor dandyism and here’s the important bit: girls love a hard man in soft colors. 

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(Red isn't dead - wear it loud and proud! Photo from Unabashedly Prep)

With the appropriate wardrobe, a triumphant comeback is always assured - fitted military inspired jackets in twill and corduroy, pea and toggle coats, seersucker shorts, skinny and selvage jeans and blazers in navy, khaki, black and splashes of plaid. And who are we to argue?

Basic Matter

Girls always make a point of attacking us guys for our lack of individuality, but it is our stubborn obfuscation that distinguishes us from our predecessors, while allowing ourselves to easily blend in and mutate. It is rare, if not impossible, to find an individual who proclaim himself a fashionista unless desperate for status that proclaims it.

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(Roll it up! Trust me, you wont look dowdy! Photo from Shentonista)

Wear them from head to toe unless you are a rock star. Wear just one or two pieces during the day time. For big guys like me, some of the slim-line jackets can actually make you look like you have dropped a few pounds. Be careful with low-rise skinny jeans, which can accentuate a belly. You could try a narrow accessory like a belt or a shoe to update your existing outfit.
How the right clothes can shrink your gut, boost your height, build your chest, broaden your shoulders and give you a better butt. Not perfect? No big deal! Style tricks for every guy shape. Fire your trainer today! Everybody has shortcomings, but not everybody knows what to do with them. Here are tips and techniques you need to take what you have got and make it rock.
See the white, resist the dark side of denim once in a while and go towards the light. This summer, try khaki trousers as stylish basic alternative to blues. They are just as versatile, but look slightly dressier, so slip then on whatever you want to go from laid-back cool to polished-up casual.

Make-under!

Here is how the new silhouettes will measure up to more standard styles, and what to look for when you are slimming it - fitted proportions and fine lines. Trousers are tapered down to the ankle and hug your legs like your insane clingy ex when you walk out of the door. Shoes has gone longer, more rounded if you are in the high double-digit sizes (and please, no square-toe loafers) unless you want to end up looking like bozo the clown. For shirts, definitely a fitted torso. Anyone who has ever had to get darts put in the back of his shirt due to a slim body type is going to want to stock up on these. Appreciate the proportionate fit.

What you should have in your closet:

  • Tapered, updated, slightly shrunken and more fitted single breasted button suit in navy, black or charcoal is a no-brainer. Blazer is half to an inch shorter, body tapered ¾, lapel’s narrower and of course, tie should be slimmer. 
  • The dark-rinse, semi slim / straight cut blue jeans. When your brain is fried by all the denim options, simplify with an old-school pair that has no special treatment or rips.

  • The black pique polo from Lacoste. Never underestimate the star power of a preppy staple that is casual enough for day but stylish enough for night.

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(Who said only Dorothy can wear gingham? Photo from Shentonista)

Now is your chance to take the straight-and-narrow path; everything from jeans and jackets to shirts and shoes are showing up in more slender, fitted shapes. It is a style that works especially well for – big surprise – thinner, shorter guys, but as long as the clothes are sized properly, they will flatter average, taller and carrying-a-little-extra body types, too (thank God!).

September 06, 2012

WOOSTER DRESSING: ON THE PERFECT FIT AND THE RIGHT CUT

For someone who doesn’t fit the usual Asian build like me, buying something off-the-rack - unless in Europe or North America - isn’t really the best option.

I have learned to accept the fact that I will never be stick-thin to fit into a minimalist Jil Sander suit or a shrunken Thom Browne but hey, I look good in Paul Smith and Ralph Lauren.

Growing up having a go-to tailor has made life easy for dad and myself. I mean, not because nothing looked good on us – we just like things our way from the right cut to the right break.

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( I have always been a fan of street style star, Nick Wooster. His personal style is just spot on!)

Finding the right tailor isn’t always easy. First, you should always need to know what to ask for. I know a couple of guys who know too much terminology, bordering on menswear know-it-all, also known as that cuckoo asshole but if you don’t know your body well enough, you’ll still look like a boxy Lego figure or worse, Gumby.

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(His suits are tailored to perfection!)

Make sure you know how a suit is supposed to fit, and find a tailor you trust to get it there. I have had my share of impulsive bespoke suits from who someone swore was the best – guess what, I never wore it despite 5 alterations.

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(Madras blazer in pure perfection - I drool!)

To bespoke virgins, here’s what to look and ask for the next time you get suited up. Trust me, it’ll be orgasmic!

1.Suits now are snugger in the shoulders and more fitted. Take note, fitter suits doesn’t mean it has to be tight.

2.Your jacket sleeve should be no lower than your wrist bone but high enough for a quarter to half-inch of your shirtsleeve to show when you move your arm.

4.Though a lot of designers are doing shorter styles lately, the ideal length hasn’t changed. I’m all for the classic cut!

5.Pant legs shouldn’t be loose nor boxy and yes, no pleats please!

6.Sartorial conservatives like me prefer no break at all but for a virgin like you, slight break wouldn’t hurt.

7.And yes, never trust a local designer who will charge you an arm and a leg for are-tagged pseudo bespoke suit. That’s just plain gross!
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(Illustration by Menco Nieuwenhuis of la couleur blanche)

And oh, if you insist wearing a silk suit during daytime, here’s a rope and a pole. I won’t stop you from hanging yourself.

February 06, 2012

ART OF THE MATTER: WHEN LOOKING GOOD IS MORE THAN JUST AN ART. IT’S ROCKET SCIENCE.

Style, taste, savoir-faire – these are qualities that make a man.

I have always liked featuring men who best reflect these calibers in their lifestyle and it feels great to be part of a generation of men that is re-defining itself and what being a man really means.

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(The bow tie is the only piece of neckwear one should choose when wearing a tuxedo.)

Well cut bespoke dress shirts from Rome’s finest tailors, slim belts in black and braided tan, navy and khaki blazers cut beautifully and tasseled suede loafers - Alfonso Tagliaferri, a diplomat, is obviously having fun, loving life and fearlessly taking over the world.

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(Navy blazer, tan penny loafers and khakis during the inauguration of OVO Habitante at the National Museum.)

Most men overlook the importance of a good fitted shirt but not Alfonso – it is almost like lingerie for women. He even makes a simple navy long-sleeved shirt with batik piping he bought during his trip in Bali look bespoke! Now, that’s sprezzatura!

Trust me, a man has more confidence knowing the piece he is wearing under his suit is made for him.

August 31, 2011

MAD WITH PLAID

Just like well tailored suits, tapered shirts and trousers – dressed up or down make you look good. Trust me, even the sartorially challenged can make an impact.

Here's what I wore today at work:

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(Plaid Hackett Brompton tailored fit in red, bespoke denim trousers and tan cap toe lace-ups)

July 18, 2011

BASIC MATTER 23: THE PREPPY WARDROBE

Time to edit your wardrobe with the right basics like classic chinos, polos in pink, Kelly and lime green, white and powder blue, Bermudas and bespoke slim shorts for the weekend, a comfortable cashmere pullover for that random trip down south or at the country club and yes, loafers and Sperry’s!
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Wrap that pullover casually around your shoulders and tadah! Sprezzatura!

A little bit of swagger helps too! Remember, it is all about class, elegance, and yes, neatness.

March 17, 2011

KHAKIS, LINEN AND AN ODD EXPERIENCE OF LOOKING PALE IN THE TROPICS

I recently came across a photo of the late John Fitzgerald Kennedy on his yacht and realized it has been a year and a half since I last went sailing. Yup, one more month until summer officially starts on my side of the Pacific and me being dead pale is in need of a tan ASAP.

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Burn those awful floral shirts hiding in your closet! Honestly, a lot tend to forget that you do not have to flair out with all sorts of overly designed pieces that scream SUMMER. A plain white linen buttoned shirt, shorts, khakis in twill and a nice pair of loafers will make you look a million bucks if you know how to wear them right. Trust me, it’s all in the execution.
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Just like my friend Fonso, he came prepared! His breezy navy and khaki blazers are actually tailored for him in Italia topped off by his wild mane. Yes, I hate to always say, “leave it to the Italians…” but they can really make even a mustard suit look really gorgeous.

May 08, 2010

RAW NOSTALGIA AND LITTLE RED RIDING SHORTS

I couldn’t believe mum just told me I look like a hobo but spends completely like a millionaire.

How can a hobo wear short shorts and espadrilles to Ironman? What am I then? A poorgeois? haha

A pop of color in your wardrobe isn’t bad despite my closet looking like a sea of blue and white but like pot, alcohol and shopping, color can be overdone.

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(Also, I found this vintage bag (see photo) made of natural raw leather which reminded me of a smaller version of the letter carriers used during the 1930’s. )

For a look that won’t have the girl right next to you and your family reach for their wayfarers, sport red tailored shorts and a pique polo with neutral espadrilles, weejuns, topsiders or canvas sneaks and you’re good to go.

April 02, 2010

BLUE'S CLUES

Life can be a bit complicated, but your clothes don’t have to. Just stick to a couple of updated basics or rummage through yours and your dad’s closet for interesting finds you didn’t think you had.

Here are some of my picks:

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(Photos from close up and private)

September 16, 2009

BASIC MATTER 13: UNCOMPLICATED DRESSING

Life can be pretty difficult but your clothes don’t have to be. Just stick to some updated basics.
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(fitted chambray and new solid oxford from GAP)

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(photo: Outlier)

Trends rise and fall but a good tailored button-down shirt is always a good investment.

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Photo: The Sartorialist and Mjölk Homme)


When your brain is fried by all the denim options available, always simplify with an old-school pair that has no special treatments or rips like the dark-rinse blue jeans or the reliable selvedge jeans. You can also go bespoke, locally try Viktors and Defacto. Also, never underestimate the power of a black shirt that’s casual enough for day but stylish enough for night.The best ones that I have are from Lacoste, Ralph Lauren and Fred Perry.

At night, work or the movie house, track jackets like the ones I got as a gift from Adidas leave me cold, really cold. I always zip back to my warm, fuzzy, well-fitting green hooded sweatshirt I got at Dean & Trent 5 years ago.

August 18, 2009

GILDED SUMMER

I recently came across Paul Smith’s Spring/Summer lookbook and I was pleasantly surprised with what I saw.
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I’m in love with the muted and subdued tone of the images and the bright pop of colors. Everything looks as though it's been painted gold by the summer sun reminding me of summer days in Tali and the beaches down south.

August 12, 2009

IVY LEAGUE + EAST COAST PREPPY = CHESTER FRENCH

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You got it right! They're both from Harvard. Music history savants Chester French seem to project themselves as an obvious choice for the new big thing and check out their Beach Boys-infused, Joe Jackson-inspired, hodge-podge indie rock and 1960s swagger style – perfecto!
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July 30, 2009

BASIC MATTER 10: CUFFED RAW JEANS AND NAVY SUIT

Everything is beautiful tailored from the jacket down to his jeans and yes, I love suede!
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Photo from The Sartorialist

“Nothing more refreshing than seeing a mature person looking this sharp. Truly a treat for the eyes.” Anonymous

July 10, 2009

CONFUSED STATE OF BEING TRENDY

I was surprise to bump into a friend I haven’t seen in seven years two days ago while rushing to my small group meeting in Joya. She went “I love what you’re wearing, it’s really trendy”.

Trendy? Me? I was never trendy. I view myself as very traditionalist guy. I know I like my pants to fit a certain way but that doesn’t make me trendy.
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(vintage Canvas bag with real leather straps, nylon sando bag from Daiso, notebook, lipbalms from Kiehls and Burtsbees, my trusty Canon digital ixus, orange card holder, post its and my old Nokia N70 [yes, I aint at all techy])

I remember mum would always tell me “If you want to know a person's true style and personality, look at their shoes and bags". Using one of those many aphorisms that mums hand down, the saying survives because it's perceptive whether it's a pair of scruffy wingtip hacked from my grandfathers closet or a shined pair of classic tussled Bass loafers.

My look is a mixture of different things: generally preppy which all boils down to classic clothes – a pair of khaki pants, dark denim, basic black pullover, gingham, a lot of tailored shorts and white and blue oxford shirts, plaids, stripes, real basic old school style and am still a pique polo shirt kid. Looking at my closet pretty much says I wear the same stuff all the time like a uniform.
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(And oh, the photos above from street etiquette is truly a site to visit.)

I am as close to my tailor as I am to my mom and I have to credit my parents for being sharp dressers.

June 13, 2009

BASIC MATTER 8: 10 ESSENTIALS

Just got home from sourcing fabric around town and ended up buying four yards of black paper mill wool and a pack of wooden buttons.

At lunch, after listing a couple of stuff on my book, I thought of writing my top ten list every man should have:
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Classic jacket and rugby weekend shirt from Shipley and Halmos
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Coal tote bag from Jackspade
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and gommino loafers from Tods

Some easy pieces
great pair of black trousers, great tailored jacket, white oxford shirt, basic top, cashmere pullovers, great pair of jeans and shorts, a nice watch, an all around man bag and a well made leather footwear –They can be simple yet very elegant.

May 30, 2009

OLIVER SPENCER

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A whymsical take on old school classics. More photos here (www.oliverspenser.co.uk)

May 22, 2009

May 11, 2009

BASIC MATTER 6: BROOKS BROTHERS

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A good Oxford shirt should be at the top of your summer list. I just got the BB shirts I ordered a week ago on Ebay and yes, they fit me really well. US based Brooks Brothers’ have been around since 1818 and they have been making brilliant cotton oxford shirts and the fact that the brand is still around today shows that they are doing something right.

May 05, 2009

HOW TO MAKE YOURSELF RAINPROOF

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You don't have to look washed up in a downpour. These items will help you thrive in the wettest weather. click here to read more.

source: men.style.com